Women's Shirt Pattern Steps

Women's Shirt, comes with few specific feature/parts like collar, cuffs and yes off course with compete front opening. shirt is considered as office formal wear and casual wear as well. it's almost similar to men's shirt but with certain feature added to fit female figure. Shirt is a kind of garment in which you can make variations in style as per your requirement, based on mood, occasions, etc. it might be formally or casually. you wear formal shirt for an office and as the place changes you can make the same shirt look funky, casual and many other just by modifying with changes in style of wearing. and adding little accessories touch to it. shirt is kind of garment which allows you to wear it many style variations. its all depends upon the wearer creative and attitude to carry.

Fabric, plays vital role in deciding about category of shirt in which it falls into formal, casual or party wear.

Apart from the description of shirt, lets understand process of shirt making from pattern development to stitching and finishing.

Measurement Required

Shirt Length

Shoulder

Chest

Waist

Hip

Armhole

Sleeve Length

Sleeve Bottom/Round

Neck Circumference

Waist length

Pattern Making Steps

Front

1-2 = Shirt length+1 ¼ “for hem.

1-3 = 1/4 of Bust - 1 ¼”.

1-4 = Shoulder to Midriff + ½”.

3-5 = 1/4 of Bust + 1 ½”.

4-6 = 1/4 of waist + 1 ½”.

2-7= ¼ of hip + 1 ½”.

1-8 = ½ shoulder width + ½” for seam.

1-9 = 1/5th Neck + ¼”.

1-10 = 1/5th Draw Neck line curve by joining 10 – 9.

9-11 = 1/5th Neck.

12 – 8 = shoulder’s slope 1 ½”.

13 = Draw a Straight line down perpendicular to 3-5.

14 = ¾” upward from point 13

C = is the center of 4 to 6 measure. Dart length 8”.

Mark 1cm on either side of the dart point ‘C’. Divide dart length from

Waist, 3.5’’ will be upward and 5.5’’ will be downward.

10 to 10A = front placket facing is ¾”.

10A – 10B = Line down, square across to point 2.

7 – 7A = 2.5’’ upwards for bottom shape. [optional]

Back

1 = Back part starting point.

1 - 15 = 1/5th Neck + ¼”.

15 – 16 = Draw upward 2 ¼”.

12 – 17 = Draw upward 2 ¼”, Draw shoulder slope from 16 - 17

17 to 18 = Draw back armhole curve.

Short Sleeves:

1 - 2 = Short sleeve length + ½”.

1 - 3 = 1/8th Bust ( – ) ½”.

3 – 4 = 1/4th Bust + ½”.

2 – 5 = Sleeve Open measurement + ¼’’ join 3 & 4.

6 = Midpoint of 1-4, draw ¾” upward and join back armhole curve 1-6A-4.

7 = Midpoint of 6-4. Join front armhole curve from 1-7-4.

2-2A =Extend 1 ½’’ for sleeve hem.

2A – 2B = Sleeve Open measurement + ¾’’. join 2B-5.

Collar (Open collar type):

1 – 2 = 3 ¼” as standard.

2 -3 = ½ Neck Circumference + ¼”.

3 – 4 = Same as 2 to 1 measure.

3 -5 = ¾ Mark upward for shape.

4 -6 = ½ upward.

6 –7 is ½” outer point and join 7-5.

Point to consider:

 Fabric Required 44” width 2mtrs, if its 36’’ width 2.5mtrs, 60" width 1.5mtrs.

 stretch Fabric diagonally to align the warp & weft.

 Iron the fabric always to remove crease, prior to marking and place draft.

 If you are a beginner, prefer making the Paper draft and then pin it to fabric.

Sewing Guide:

Required materials to stitch-

-Front placket canvas strip

-collar and cuff canvas [ soft canvas are preferred for women's shirt]

Sewing steps-

-first thing is to fuse front placket at front right side panel leaving 1.5"from the edge.

-After Fusing fold exactly at fused line and fold the fabric inside and stitch.

-Take left panel and fold the placket allowance inside and stitch.

-Then attach front and back at shoulder.

-Take both sleeve and finish the sleeve placket [ measure the sleeve placket length including both sides of cut edges, cut fabric length accordingly and width of 1.5", keep this piece of fabric under the sleeve placket edge and stitch at distance of 1/4" from one end to another by opening slit, after the stitch turn it up fold the edge of 1/4"and finish with edge stitch.

-Now attach sleeve to body. Mark center of sleeve and match with center of armhole keep the right side of the fabric faces each other. make small dummy stitch at the center so that you will get proper guide to attach sleeve, start from back side of arm hole by leaving 1/2" seam. while stitching at curve don't pull either of parts if incase of any difference you can adjust armhole curve by stretching slightly.

-After attaching sleeve, stitch sides attaching front and back side by leaving 1/2" seam allowance inside.

-Attach cuff. [ cuff are cut in canvas with ready measurement, fuse it to fabric by leaving 1/2" distance all the side, by keep this cut fabric to turn. stitch exactly at fusing line on all the three sides and turn it, fusing part will get inside, make sure to turn edges properly , you can use scissor or any similar object to turn it neatly, and press it] make 2 cuffs ready. -once this is ready, attach it to sleeve. keep the cuff on wrong side of the sleeve surface stich it at 1/2" seam and turn it. after turning insert the seam edge inside cuff and finish cuff on top side with edge and pointed stitch.

-Finish hem line by double folding 1/2" inside.

-After finishing hem, attach collar.[ ready collar to be cut on canvas and fuse it on wrong side of fabric and cut by leaving 1/2" on all sides and cut one more of same measurement and stitch together on top and sides after stitching turn it and press it neatly. then attach from right side of the garment at neck line with 1/2" distance. now turn it inside and insert seam edge inside collar and finish it with edge stitch.[ when you turn collar after attaching to garment, fused collar part should be inside].

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