Circular Skirt Drafting Steps

DRAFTING THE CIRCULAR SKIRT

Measurement used for draft given —

Waist -25”

Hip -42”

Front length – 40”

Side length of -40’’

Back length – 41”

Drafting Steps

Take a sheet of paper having a square corner and one straight edge large enough for the draft. If a piece large enough is not at hand, paste several together.

1. Use the corner of the paper for a center, and a radius of 10 inches, and draw a circle. Point A.

2. With the same center and a radius of 15 inches, draw another circle. Point C.

3. Measure from A on circle, 1/2 the Waist measure. Mark this point B.

4. Measure from C on circle, 1/2 the Hip measure. Mark this point D.

5. Find a point on circle A-B half way between A and B. Mark this point E.

6. Measure down 3/4 of an inch from B. Mark this point F.

7. Place point J on the chart at E, and with curve J-F draw curve towards F. Continue curve to F.

8. Find a point on circle C-D half way between C and D. Mark this point G.

9. Measure down from D 3/4 of an inch. Mark this point H.

10. Place point J on the chart at G and with curve J-F draw curve towards H. Continue curve to H.

11. Measure from A on circle A-F 1/2 of Waist measure. Mark this point I.

12. Measure from C on circle C-H, 1/2 of Hip measure. Mark this point J.

13. Draw a straight line through I and J and continue down the length of the Back skirt measure. This line is the center back line.

14. Measure from A down the edge of the paper, which is the front center line of the skirt, the Front length measure of the skirt. Point K.

15. Measure down from I the Back length of skirt. Point L.

16. Measure from E the Side length of skirt. Point M.

17. The curve for the bottom of the skirt is found by measuring down every few inches the length measures of the skirt. This skirt draft should never be used for narrow goods. It should always be cut from very heavy goods. In cutting pattern allow seams down the back and at the waist line.

Waistband

A - B = Waist Circ.

B - B1 = 2 cm Button Stand

A - C = 5cm (not a fixed measurement)

A - C1 = ½ of A-C fold line

Circular Skirt Variations:-

1/4th Circular Skirt

Fig 001 Pattern Layout

Quarter Circle skirt - A skirt with a less flair and a single side seam joint. Because the front and back measurements and patterns are same You can cut both at once. The method of marking pattern is similar for all circular skirt variation except the changes in waist measurement. Laying Fabric plays vital role in forming desired circle shape.

open layout pattern as shown in diagram.

Half Circular Skirt

Closed Layout of pattern marking Open Layout of marking

Half Circle skirt - A 180 Degree circle skirt which includes both front and back. as it laid open it looks /completes half circle. as mentioned above, method remains same and 1/2 of waist measurement on fold fabric lay. see 'closed layout' figure. Here again side seam join will be optional, depending on your requirement you can separate front and back or you can have only one side seam joint.

3/4 circular skirt

Closed Layout of pattern marking Open Layout of marking

It's 3/4 of whole circle skirt. Both Front and back remains symmetrical and can be made separate front and back or can have one joint.

Circular High Low Skirt or Long back

Closed Layout of pattern marking Open Layout of marking

High low circle skirt - one of the simple variant in circular skirt. Pattern is same as the full circular skirt and back pattern will be extended as shown in the diagram. The length varies based on your requirement.

Hand Kerchief Style Circular Skirt

Fabric Fold Marking

Open Layout

A name by its character, A skirt made on square piece of cloth/fabric has made space at center to accommodate/fit waist without any other value addition. Natural drape of the fabric and fabric corners syncing with the flow is enough to to catch a viewers eye sight. you get more number of option to wear it in style by turning in around the waist.

References:-

- Practical Sewing and Dress Making By Sara May Allington

- Metric Pattern Cutting By Winifred Aldrich