Palazzo pants are wide leg pants which makes this unique feature of this silhouette, a flare begin from waist to ankle. its a very comfort and stylish outfit. experiment with monochrome and pastel colors with different prints pairing up with trendy upper wear.
Measurement Required
· Full Length
· Waist Round
· Hip Round
· Knee Round
· Ankle/Bottom Round
· Knee Length [waist to knee]
Drafting Steps
Front
1-2 = Full Length+1/2” – Waist Band Width
2-3 = 2” for Bottom hem fold.
1-4 = ¼ of hip + 2” [Front Rise]
4-5 = 1/6 of Half Hip
1-6 = Knee Length [waist to Knee]
5-7 = ¼ of Hip + 2”.
8 = Midpoint of 7-5. Draw line upwards intersecting to line 1 and mark 9.
10-11 = ¼ of waist + ½’’. Mark either side of 9 according to draft.
4-12 = 1/3 of Hip+1/2”.
13 = Draw a line downwards intersecting to 12-4.
12-7-11 = join the points by curve line according to draft.
6-14 = 1/2 of Knee Round.
2-15 = 1/2 of Ankle Round.
3-16 = Same measurement of 2-15+1”.
17 = Mark ½” below 11 and join 1 by inward curve line.
Back
Trace Front Part
11-18 = ½ of 11-9.
18-19 = Draw a line up 2”.
18-20 = 1/4 of Waist + 4 cm for Dart Allowances.
19-20 = Join Curve Line.
20-21 = 3 ¼’’ for dart and draw line downwards of 3 ½” and mark 1 cm on either side of 21 and join dart point.
21-22 = 2 ¾” for second dart, and draw line downwards of 3 ½” and mark 1 cm on either side of 22 and join dart point.
23-13 = mark ½’’ inward and draw line upward by joining 19.
24 = Mark at Hipline intersection 5-7.
24-25 = ¼ of hip + ½”.
Join 20-25-24 by outward Curve Line.
12-26 = 1/8 of Half Hip + ½”.
26-27 = Mark ½” downward and join 24 by curve line.
14-28 = Add 1 ½” for back at knee position join 28-27 by inward curve line.
15-29 = Add 1 ½” for back at ankle position.
16-30 = Add 1 ½” and join 29-28.
Left waist band – Add 1 ½” on both sides.
Right side waist band – Add 1 ½” on left end and 3 ½” on Right end.
Points to Refer:
Ø Fabric Required 58” width 1.5 mtrs.
Ø First straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft.
Ø Iron the fabric always to remove crease, prior to marking and place draft.
Ø If you are a beginner, prefer making the Paper draft and then pin it to fabric.
Sewing Guide
Additional materials required
Belt Canvas
Secure the all side edges by overlock stitch using matching threads.
- Iron all the four parts by folding vertically at center.
start front by making side seam pockets, take the pocketing fabric attach pocket facing on right surface of pocketing. attach other side of pocketing to front part and fold at notch on front part, and run edge or pointed stitch. after this, turn the pocket bag outside and finish edge by folding 1/4" inside turn and run pointed stitch to cover the raw edges inside pockets. now run dummy stitch on top of the front part by matching the pocket fold and pocket facing mark. by doing this front part is ready with pockets. follow the same procedure to other front part.
-complete the back dart.
-join side of left side front and left back. right side front and right side back.
-Prepare Fly to attach zip.[keep two layer of fly stitch and all the thee sides and turn it up, and press it neatly]
-keep zip open on wrong side upon the left side front part and place fly on top of the zip and stitch at 1/4" distance. Turn and run edge stitch on top of the joint.
-Take another fly and attach on top of the right side front crotch line. now attach other side of zip to this fly by facing wrong side of the zip on top. turn it inside and run 'J' stitch on right side front part on top surface.
- join inside seam.
-Prepare waistband and attach to body.[ cut canvas belt by measuring waist of both leg parts fuse it to wrong surface of the fabric and fix hook on right side waistband front. and eye at left side waistband front. attach belt loops by distributing equally as per diagram. and stitch this along with another pcs of fabric on top and sides, turn it and attach this to body by stitching on right side surface of trouser body.
-Join the crotchline together.[ to perform crotch line stitch, turn one leg part and insert it inside to other leg part. after inserting you will get the crotch line together which will help to finish the join neatly. after this crotch stitch take out the leg part which inserted. now you can see the trouser finished attaching all the parts together].
-Fold the edge of the waistband fabric. insert the belt attached seam inside and run a stitch from top surface of the trouser.
-Finish Hem line by folding it inside by 1.5". This completes the trouser.
-Press sides seam and hemline. use steam iron for better finish.
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