Women's Kurthi Pattern Steps

Women's Long Kurthi- A garment which covers upper body to till knee length with side. one of the garment which is used widely and regularly by every Indian women. its quite commonly paired with salwar or churidhar pants and jeans as well. this is one garment which suits to all seasons. very comfortable garment to use in all day today activities. In the market, Kurthi is one garment which is always increase in demand. made to suit all kind of traditional, casual, formal, occasional wear. Bringing out many variations by adding texture designs, type of cuts, value additions like embroidery, printing etc and so on.

we have given basic neck line straight cut Kurthi pattern. In which you can manipulate as per your requirements.

Fabric: Cotton, Silk, Rayon, Polyester includes maximum variations of fabric except more thickness fabric. which make more bulkier so avoid thick fabrics.

Measurement Required

1.Full Length

2.Shoulder

3.Chest

4.Waist

5.Hip

6.Arm Hole

7.Sleeve Length

8.Sleeve Round

9.Neck Round

10. Waist Length

11. Neck Deep

Drafting Steps

Front

0-1 = Full Length + 1” Draw a Line Across.

0-2 = Hip Length Measurement [HPS – Hip].

0-3 = Arm Depth, 1/6th Bust + 1” Draw a Line across.

0-4 = Natural waist Length + ½” Draw a Line across

0-5 = 1/6 of Neck Round Measurement + ½”.

0-6 = ½ of Shoulder Measurement + ½”.

3-7 = ½ of Shoulder Measurement + ½” and join point 6.

3-8 = ¼ Bust measurement + ¾ “.

6-9 = Mark ¾” downwards and draw diagonal line by joining 9-10.

0-10 = 1/6 of Neck Round Measurement + ½”.

5-11 = Same measurement of 0-10 and draw line upwards by joining 10

11-12 = 1 ¼ at 45 angle, draw a neckline curve by joining points 5-12-10.

4-13 = ¼ of waist measurement + ½”. Draw line Upwards by joining point 8.

2-14 = ¼ Hip Measurement + 1” Ease Allowance.

1-15 = ¼ Hip Measurement + 2” Draw a line by joining point 14.

15-16 = Mark 3/4 “upward to draw curve line by joining line [1-15]

15-17 = mark ½” Inward for side shape.

7-18 = 1” upward as per Draft.

19 = Midpoint of 6-7

19-20 = Mark ½ “inward.

Draw Arm hole line Using French Curve by Joining [9-20-18-8].

After Completion of pattern you can mark slit from the point 14.

NOTE: If you need slit from lower waistline, kindly follow the below steps:

0-A = HPS to Low Waist Line, draw line across by joining line 13-14, Mark B

Connect line from B – 15 with a straight line.

Back

0-21 = 1 ¼ “back Neck drop.

0-22 = Save as front 1 to 10 measurement.

21-23 = Same Measurement of 1-22

9-8 = Draw an outward armhole curve line.

Sleeve

1-2 = sleeve length+1”.

1-3 = 1/8th bust-3/4”.

3-4 = 1/4 bust-3/4”.

2-5 = 1/6th bust-1/2”.

6 = the middle of 1 to 4 measure.

7 =½ of the 6 to 4 measure.

8 =the middle of 6 to 1 measure.

9 -7 = 3/4”.

8-10 = Mark 3/4 upward.

1-10-7-4 = back armhole shape.

4-6-1 = front armhole shape.

Some Points to consider:

Ø Fabric Required 2.5 Mtrs’ length & width of 44".

Ø When you are marking the pattern directly on fabric, first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft.

Ø Iron the fabric to remove crease prior to marking and place the draft.

if you are a beginner, prefer making the paper draft first, then pin it to fabric

Sewing guide

Additional materials Required

Micro Dot Fusing

-Start with front part by finishing neckline. then finish back neckline.[ these neckline are finished by facing or Binding methods, facing give very neat finish when compare to Binding. For facing- Trace front neck line on to other fabric and mark 1.5" on sides and cut. apply micro dot fusing to wrong side of fabric, keep on top of front neckline stitch at a distance of 1/4" turn back and run a edge stitch or press and do hand hem to finish neckline. follow same process to finish back part]

-Attach front and back shoulder by 1/2" distance as seam.

-Attach sleeve by marking center. keep the sleeve on top of the body and stitch at 1/2" distance and secure the edges with overlock stitch.

-After attaching both sleeves finish the sleeve hem by folding 1/2" inside.

-Join the side of front and back on both sides at a distance of 1/2" seam allowance. Till slit opening mark.

-Finish slits of both front and back parts. fold the side edges by 1cm" and turn inside and run edge stitch. Start slit stitching from back part bottom and continue the stitch at the slit point. turn and run few stitch to reach front part and run down stitch towards bottom. follow same process to other side slit.

-Finish bottom by folding 1/2" inside.

-Press it with steam iron.

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