Men's Full Sleeve Shirt Pattern Making Steps

Men's Shirt- it is basic garment in every man wardrobe. specific parts collars, cuffs and Pockets, with many styles and variations. casual shirt, formal shirt, club shirts, party wear shirts etc. likewise many variations are available in today's market. Fabric plays very important role, when it comes to differentiate shirts. Apart from fabric and texture, these specific part will not serve just functional purpose it also plays vital role in decoration purpose as well by making little changes in shapes, by increasing or decreasing length or cornering shapes and also you can add contrast or additional stitches. if we look at retro style as an example , you can see variations of collar and cuff in its size and shape. Even in present market there are many types of collar, cuffs to choose from. and of course there are changes in body shapes, in the name of slim fit, regular fit and so on by incorporating double darts and pleats at back, or shaping at waist line, bottom/hem line etc.

Measurement Required

1.Full Length

2.Shoulder

3.Chest

4.Waist

5.Hip

6.Sleeve Length

7.Armhole

8.Upper arm

9.Cuff Round

10.Neck Round

11.Shoulder to waist

Pattern Making Steps

Front

1 – 2 = Full length + ½".

2 – 3 = 1 ½" Hem.

1 - 4 = Arm Depth, chest /4 - ½".

1 – 5 = Natural Waist length [shoulder to Midriff] + ½”

1 – 6 = 1/6th of Neck Round Measurement.

1 – 7 = ½" shoulder+ ½”

4 - 8 = Chest /4 + 2”

7 – 9 = Draw a line perpendicular to 4-8.

1-11 = 1/6th Neck Round.

12 = Mark 1 ½" downward from point 7.

6-10 = same as 1-11 join 10 and 11.

10 – 13 = 1" Diagonal Line.

11 – 6 = Draw a Neck line curve by joining 13.

5 – 14 = ¼ Waist measurement + 2”.

2 – 15 = ¼ of Hip measurement + 1 ½”. Join 8, 14, 15.

16 = Extend 1 ½” from 15 and join 16-3.

17 = Mark ¾” above to draw armhole curve.

18 = Midpoint of 7-9 measurement.

18 – 19 = ½” Mark inward and draw arm hole curve 12-19-17-8.

6 – A = ¾” For Button Placket reference.

A –B = Placket width 1 ½” join C according to Illustration.

Placket can also be self fold / plain placket.

To make French placket mark 2 ¼” from A to B.

Back

21 – 22 = Full Length + ½”.

22 – 23 = hem folding 1 ½”.

21 - 24 = ½ shoulder+ ½”

21 – 25 = Chest /4(-) 2".

24 – 26 = Draw a line Downwards mark 26 at intersection.

25 – 27 = ¼th Chest + 2"

21 – 28 = Natural Waist length 16 + ½”.

29 = ¼ Waist + 2” join 28.

30 = ¼ Hip + 2” join 22.

31 = Extend 1 ½” from 30 and join 23.

Shoulder

1-2 = 1/8th chest +1/2”.

1-3 = ½ shoulder+1/2” for seam.

3-4 = Draw a line down same measure as 1-2. join 4-2

4-5 = Mark 1/2" inward as per draft for yoke shape and join 3.

1-6 = 1/6th neck + ¾”.

6-7 = 2” Square up as per draft for shoulder slope.

6-8 = 1" 45 angle to draw neck line curve.

1-7 = join with curve line.

3-9 = Mark 2" downward as per draft and join 6 with reference line.

sleeve

1 - 2 = sleeve length +1/2"(-) cuff width 2 ½".

1 - 3 = 1/8th chest (-) ½”.

3 - 4 = 1/4th chest +1/2”.

2 - 5 = ½ cuff + 1 ½” for pleats.

5 - 6 = 1/2” mark Downward.

7 = middle or 5-2 measure.

7 - 8 = 4 ½”.

9 = mark midpoint of 1-4

9 - 10 = mark 1" upward,

Draw back arm curve by joining 4-10-1

11 = mid of 9-4 measurement.

12-11 =¾" mark downward. Join 4-12- 9- 1.

Collar

1 – 2 = ½ Neck round measurement.

1 – 4 = Collar width 1 ¾”.

2 – 3 = 1 ¾” and Square across to 4.

3 – 5 = 3/8”.

2 – 6 = Mark Collar point 2 ¾” joining 5. And draw curve line joining 3-4.

Collar / Neck band

7 – 8 = Mark 1 3/8”.

8 – 9 = ½ Neck circumference.

9 – 10 = Mark 1 3/8" .

10 – 11 = Mark 1 3/8” .

11 – 12 = Mark 1 3/8” .

10 – 13 = ¼”.

Points to be considered

· Collar and collar band to be cut on canvas/fusing.

· Pocket Size - 4 ¾” X 5 ¼”[W X L]

· Pocket Open fold 1 ¼”, Add Seam allowance ½”.

Sewing Guide:

Required materials to stitch-

-Front placket canvas strip

-collar and cuff canvas [ soft canvas are preferred for women's shirt]

Sewing steps-

-first thing is to fuse front placket at front left side panel leaving 1.5"from the edge.

-After Fusing fold exactly at fused line and fold the fabric inside and stitch.

-Take left panel and fold the placket allowance inside and stitch.

- Join yoke and back part together at 1/2"distance. keep back part in between of two yokes right side faces each other. after joining turn it and run edge stitch upon yoke joint.

-Then attach front and back at shoulder. To attach front, roll the back part from bottom till yoke line and turn the yoke, once u do this the back park will get inside the yoke and now you keep the front in between the yoke shoulder line, whereas yoke right side faces each other, stitch at 1/2" distance, turn it by pulling out back part which in in roll form inside the yoke. then run edge stitch on top of the shoulder line.

-Take both sleeve and finish the sleeve placket [ measure the sleeve placket length of both sides of cut edges, cut fabric length accordingly and width of 1.5" for right side and 2.5" for left side. to finish right side edge keep the piece of fabric under the sleeve placket edge and stitch at distance of 1/4", after the stitch turn it up, fold the edge of 1/4"and finish with edge stitch. to finish left side follow same as right side one , but when you are stitching topside continue stitching from the slit end for about 1.5" and fold the fabric pcs edge in form of 'V' shape or square shape bring back the stitch till slit end and complete it by locking it.

-Now attach sleeve to body. Mark center of sleeve and match with center of armhole keep the right side of the fabric faces each other. make small dummy stitch at the center so that you will get proper guide to attach sleeve, start from back side of arm hole by leaving 1/2" seam. while stitching at curve don't pull either of parts if incase of any difference you can adjust armhole curve by stretching slightly.

-After attaching sleeve, stitch sides attaching front and back side by leaving 1/2" seam allowance inside.

-Attach cuff. while attaching a cuff insert pleats next to sleeve placket facing towards placket side. [ cuff are cut in canvas with ready measurement, fuse it to fabric by leaving 1/2" distance all the side, by keep this cut fabric to turn. stitch exactly at fusing line on all the three sides and turn it, fusing part will get inside, make sure to turn edges properly , you can use scissor or any similar object to turn it neatly, and press it] make 2 cuffs ready.

-once this is ready, attach it to sleeve. keep the cuff on wrong side of the sleeve surface stich it at 1/2" seam and turn it. after turning insert the seam edge inside cuff and finish cuff on top side with edge and pointed stitch.

-Finish hem line by double folding 1/2" inside.

-After finishing hem, attach collar and neckband together then attach to body.[ ready collar and neck band to be cut on canvas and fuse it on wrong side of fabric and cut by leaving 1/2" on all sides and cut one more of same measurement. stitch collar parts together on top and sides after stitching turn it and press it neatly. then keep the collar in between of the two layer of neck band top side, [whereas collar fused layer faces up and fabric layer down and keep neck band fabric layer on top and fused layer down]stitch including sides of neck band and turn it up. then attach from wrong side of the garment at neck line with 1/2" distance. now take it outside and insert seam edge inside neckband and finish it with edge stitch. [When you turn after attaching to garment, fused neckband part should be outside].

We would like to hear from you.

Please leave your valuable comment or suggestion below.

Thank you