Men's Basic Trouser Pattern

Men's Trousers- Basic outfit in men's wardrobe and very commonly and widely used in day to day life. a piece of cloth used to cover lower part of the body. Bottom wear worn at waist, covers till ankle. categorized formal and casual wear. both are differentiated with fit, styles and design and fabric used. many variation of trousers which were in the market, naming Bell bottom, single pleated and double pleated trouser, baggy fit trouser, plain trouser, etc.

Measurement Required

1.Full Length

2.Waist

3.Hip

4.Thigh Round

5.Knee Round

6.Ankle Round

7.Inside Leg

8.Waist To hip

Drafting Steps

Front:

Begin with top Right Corner This Point A

A-B =Hip Depth

A-C =Crotch Length (Trouser Length – Inside leg length)

B-B1 =Square Left 1/4Hip Circumference +1.5 cm Ease Allowance

B-B2 =Square Right 0.5cm join to points A

C-C1 =Square Left Same Measurement as B-B1

C-C2 =1/20 Hip Circumference connect to B2 (crotch front)

D = 1/2of C-C1

E-D =Square up from line C1-C2

E-D1 =Knee Length Square Down from Line C1-C2

E-F =Trousers Length

A-A1 = 1/4Waist Circumference + .75 cm

A1-A2 = Square up 1 cm with a curve join points A2 –B1-C1 (Side Seam)

F1-F2 = 1/2 of ankle/ Bottom Measurement, mark either side from F.

D2-D3 =Knee Width, 1/2of Knee Measurement. join Points C2-D2-F2 (Inseam) and C1-D3-F1 (Out seam)

Square Out from each Side of D1 using D1 as mid-point

Back

The Front Pattern.

A-H = 1/2A-E+2cm

H-H1 =Square Up 2cm

C-C3 =Move left 1/24 of half hip circumference, join to point H1

C3-C4 = 1/10 Hip Circumference

L = Reference point for the hip measurement (intersection of line F1 – C3 and B1 – B2)

H1 –H2 = Extend line A-A1 to the left 1/4circumference, Waist-1cm +3cm for Dart

H2-H3 = Square up 1cm to join to point H1

L-L1 = 1/4 hip circumference, with a curve join points H3-L1(Side Seam) and L-C4 back crotch

G-G1 = From points D3-D2 add 1.5 cm to each side

F3-F4 = Add the same measurement as G-G1 join points L1-G-F3(out seam) and C4-G1-F4 (Inseam)

Dart:

M = 1/2H1-H3

M-N =Move down 14cm, parallel with line H1-L

M1-M2 =From point M move out 1.5 cm on each side join to point N

How to true the trousers pattern copy the back, Place the back on top of the front pattern matching inseams of hemline. Walk the pattern along inseams, ending at crotch. Mark and remove pattern. The back inseam may be longer than front.

Place the back on top of the front pattern, matching outseams at hemline. Mark pattern along outseam, ending at side waist Mark and remove the pattern.

Front pocket

1-2 = 2″.

2-3 = 1”.

3-4 = 2 ⅜”.

1-5 = 5 ½”.

5-6 = 1”.

Draw a straight line parallel to line 2-5 from 3-6.

Square down 10” from 4 to locate 7, draw line across to side seam and mark 8

Some Points to Consider:

 Fabric Required 44” width 2mtrs, if its 36’’ width 2.5mtrs.

 Stretch Fabric diagonally to align the warp & weft.

 Iron the fabric always to remove crease, prior to marking and place draft.

 If you are a beginner, prefer making the Paper draft and then pin it to fabric

Sewing Guide

Additional Materials Required

Waist Belt Canvas

Pocketing material

Zip

Hooks

Secure the all side edges by overlock stitch using matching threads.

- Iron all the four parts by folding vertically at center.

start front by making side pockets, take the pocketing fabric attach pocket facing on right surface of pocketing. attach other side of pocketing to front part and fold at notch on front part diagonally, and run edge or pointed stitch. after this, turn the pocket bag outside and finish edge by folding 1/4" inside turn and run top pointed stitch to cover the raw edges inside pockets. now run dummy stitch on top of the front part by matching the pocket fold and pocket facing mark. by doing this front part is ready with pockets. follow the same procedure to other front part.

-complete the back dart.

-Make back pocket. keep the pocket fabric under the bank part at pocket mark. keep pocket bone on top of the right surface of the fabric. stitch both pocket bone from end to end, cut on the pocket marking leave little gap from both the ends of pocket marking and cut diagonally to upwards and downwards a bit. its makes easy to turn the bone inside and gives neat finish. after turning bone run edge stitch on all the side of pocket. on the other end of inside pocket bag stitch pocket facing. fold the pocket bag on marking and attach to top of the back part.

-join side of left side front and left back. right side front and right side back.

-Prepare Fly to attach zip.[keep two layer of fly stitch and all the thee sides and turn it up, and press it neatly]

-keep zip open on wrong side upon the right side front part and place fly on top of the zip and stitch at 1/4" distance. Turn and run edge stitch on top of the joint.

-Take another fly and attach on top of the left side front crotch line. now attach other side of zip to this fly by facing wrong side of the zip on top. turn it inside and run 'J' stitch on left side front part on top surface.

- join inside seam.

-Prepare waistband and attach to body.[ cut canvas belt by measuring waist of both leg parts fuse it to wrong surface of the fabric and fix hook on left side waistband front. and eye at right side waistband front. attach belt loops by distributing equally as per diagram. and stitch this along with another pcs of fabric on top and sides, turn it and attach this to body by stitching on right side surface of trouser body.

-Join the crotchline together.[ to perform crotch line stitch, turn one leg part and insert it inside to other leg part. after inserting you will get the crotch line together which will help to finish the join neatly. after this crotch stitch take out the leg part which inserted. now you can see the trouser finished attaching all the parts together].

-Fold the edge of the waistband fabric. insert the belt attached seam inside and run a stitch from top surface of the trouser.

-Finish Hem line by folding it inside by 1.5". This completes the trouser.

-Press crotch line properly by spreading out seams with the help of ironing pillow.

-Press sides seam and hemline. use steam iron for better finish.

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